Euro nymphing fly rods

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Can I use my existing fly rod to euro nymph? Why would I want to invest in a fly rod specifically for tight-line techniques? What weight and length fly rod is best for fishing euro nymphing techniques? These are all common questions I see folks ask when getting into euro nymphing (tight-lining, contact nymphing, czech nymphing and the many other names the technique goes by). While I could certainly leave you with the vanilla “sure you can fish the technique with just about any rod” answer, the fact is, some fly rods are better suited for the technique than others.

Does this mean you’re going to go from ground zero to a top ranked competitive angler overnight just by using a fly rod well suited for euro nymphing? Maybe, but most likely not. However, if you’re just getting into the technique and/or plan to use it often, chances are a well suited fly rod will improve your effectiveness.

To make matters even more interesting; every fly angler has their own preference and style, so no one fly rod is the perfect fit for everyone, even with euro nymphing techniques. To send you out in the euro nymphing world better prepared to find the perfect euro stick for your style, this post aims to arm you with some basic characteristics commonly found in euro nymphing style rods.

Not in a reading mood and just want the quick and dirty summary? Have a look at the list below that summarizes these common characteristics.

  • A  fly rod at least 10′ in length, generally with medium – fast action and a delicate enough tip section to protect thin tippet that’s common with tight-line techniques. Typically 2wt – 4wt rods are used for this style of fishing, but higher weight rods can get the job done at the expense of a stiffer tip section.
  • Stealthy color schemes often including unfinished or matte blanks in natural colors, less reflective hardware (tip-tip, guides, etc.) and darker wrap colors.
  • Ultralight fly rod blank and hardware choices that reduce swing weight allowing the rod to better balance with a light reel. Carbon fiber (graphite) is the ideal blank material.
  • Down-locking reel seat to push your reel’s weight further towards the butt of the rod for greater offset of rod length (balance).
  • Bottom stripping guide placed closer to handle to reduce line sag that can occur in limp-line applications (for example, a mono rig).

Interested in a more details? Read on…

 

Rod Length

Size does matter, and rod length is perhaps one of the most important characteristics of a fly rod well suited for euro nymphing. A longer rod gives you more reach; allowing you to cast further and control your drift more effectively even across multiple currents in the river (for more details have a look at this article by Tactical Fly Fisher and/or TFO Fly Rods). Many euro nymphing rods on the market today range from 10′ – 12′, with the most common configurations in a 10′ or 10′ 6″ length. As a general rule of thumb, 10′ is about the minimal length to look for a rod well suited for tight-line techniques.

 

an-11-foot-euro-stick

My son wrangling a healthy little bow on an 11′ euro stick

 

Longer is better, but only to a certain extent. With a euro nymphing rod/reel setup, you ideally want the setup to balance nicely in top portion the cork grip where you comfortably hold the rod. This balance is achieved by adding weight to rear-end of the rod; a heavier reel, or even counter weights that attach to the butt of the rod. As you can imagine, as the rod length grows, so does the amount of weight needed on the rear-end to properly balance the setup. This all adds up to additional fatigue.

So how long is too long? This is really more of a preference than a rule. Some anglers have more endurance, better technique, etc. and can comfortably fish a lengthy setup for long periods of time. For the rest of us, generally rods longer than 11′ or 11′ 6″ become fatiguing when properly balanced due to weight of the setup.

 

Rod Action

Fast or slow, which way do I go? While the wishy-washy answer is “it depends on your preference“, many euro nymphing rods on the market today fall into the fast to medium/fast category. These fly rods are typically stiffer up to about the 2/3 point on the blank and then become quiet supple. This action allows your cast to turn over quickly, while at the same time protecting thin tippet that’s common when using tight-line techniques.

While any weight rod can be used for tight-line techniques, most euro nymphing specific rods range from 1wt – 4wt, with 3wt being one of the more common used today. If you’re thinking “how can I wrangle 18+ inch fish on a 2wt or 3wt fly rod“, I can assure you that a true euro rod blank is not designed the same as a general purpose fly rod blank.

Fly rod blanks designed for euro nymphing generally have an aggressive taper. Taper is how the diameter of the rod blank changes as you progress up/down the rod and is directly related to the rod’s action. Some euro nymphing rods may actually have a butt diameter equivalent of +2wt or more, with a tip section equivalent to -1wt or more. This aggressive taper achieves the rod action described earlier in this section; stiff 2/3 of the way up and supple in the upper 1/3 of the fly rod blank.

To help illustrate the photo below shows the rear of a euro nymphing rod as compared to a general purpose fly rod. While the euro rod shown here is rated at 3wt, you can see its blank diameter just above the handle is almost equivalent to the diameter of the general purpose fly rod that’s a 5wt.

 

Euro nymphing rod taper

The butt diameter of a 3wt euro nymphing rod vs. a 5wt general purpose rod

 

I like to take things slower you say. You’re in luck; a newer breed of euro nymphing rods are being built these days using a softer action; mid-flex and even full-flex profiles. These softer rods can certainly get the job done when it comes to tight-line techniques, but they also suffer from the same limitations as softer general purpose fly rods do. When combating wind or trying to land longer casts with these softer rods, often more power must be used. In addition, these softer rods often don’t dampen as quickly as a faster rod action, meaning it takes a little extra time to gain control over your drift when landing a cast. However if you prefer a softer general purpose fly rod, you may also find yourself preferring these softer euro sticks as well.

 

Rod Color

If you really get into tight-line techniques, chances are you’ll become a ninja in stealthiness quite fast. Unlike longer-line techniques, tight-line techniques often require you to get closer to the fish you’re targeting. Sometimes this means your (long) euro rod will be hanging out over the water, possibly close to your target, or above targets that you don’t even see. What do you think will happen if a fish sees a highly visible, flashy rod over it’s head; it very well may spook off or stop feeding.

To stay stealthy, many fly rod blanks built for euro nymphing are unfinished or have a matte finish to reduce light flare. Light flare is basically a flash that occurs when light rays reflect/refract off a shinny surface, and can happen when the sun reflects off the glossy paint on a fly rod. Some euro rods even go as far as to use satin varnish or buff off the shine on epoxy used over the wraps of the fly rod guides.

Does it really matter that much? Decide for yourself. The photos below illustrates some of the effects a finish of a fly rod has on light flare.

fly rod blank paint removed to reduce flare

Fly rod blank flare of unfinished vs. glossy paint

unfinished-fly-blank-glossy-guides

A fly rod blank with paint stripped and glossy fly line guide epoxy

 

Fly Line Guides

Believe it or not, the fly line guides used on a rod can make a difference. In particular, the guides should be lightweight and stealthy. For this reason, single foot guides in darker colors are well suited for euro rods. Not only are these single foot guides lighter weight than snake style guides (with 2 feet), but they also only require a single set of wraps and epoxy (ideally a thin coating) to finish, reducing the overall swing weight of the finished rod. One of the more popular guides used on high end rods today for this application are RECoil single foot guides, that weigh a fraction of many other single foot guides on the market.

 

Snake style fly line guides

Snake style fly line guides have 2 feet and require 2 sets of wraps and epoxy

Single foot fly line guides

Single foot fly line guides only require 1 set of wraps and epoxy

 

Guide placement can matter too. Placement refers to where on the fly rod blank the guides are attached. Some folks advocate using less guides (wider placement between guides) on euro rods, under the assumption that the fly line won’t be traveling through the guides as much due to euro style casting. While I don’t argue with this advice, I would caution to ensure placement is close enough to sustain rod flex for when fighting fish.

Some euro specific built rods also place the lowest most stripping guide closer to handle than normal. The idea here is that the thin line often used with euro nymphing will sag less between the fly reel and the stripping guide keeping it closer to your rod hand. While this is certainly true, it also can be a limiting factor in the application of your fly rod. These closely placed stripping guides don’t lend themselves well to techniques that require feeding line during the cast; the short distance between the fly reel and the stripper isn’t wide enough to comfortably feed line with your non-rod hand.

euro-rod-stripping-guide-placement

Some euro nymphing specific fly rods place the lowest stripping guide closer to the grip

 

Reel Seats

All reel seats aren’t built equally. Today most general purpose fly rods come with up-locking reel seats. These seats push your reel forward towards the cork handle when tightened. While this is fine and dandy, it doesn’t help counter-balance the rod/reel setup as much as a down-locking reel seat. With a down-locking reel seat the reel is pushed towards to butt of the rod when tightened. It might be hard to believe, but even an inch or less of offset can make difference in balance, allowing you to use a lighter reel with a down-locking reel seat. For that reason, down-locking style reel seats are often best suited for euro rods.

up-locking-reel-seat

Up-locking reel seats push the reel weight up into the cork grip

 

down-locking-reel-seat

Down-locking reel seats push the reel weight down towards to butt-end

 

Fighting Butts

A fighting butt on a 2wt – 3wt rod, are you serious? Totally serious! Fighting butts aid in proper rod/reel balance as they add weight to the rear-end of the rod. In addition, some anglers believe that fighting butts allow the weight of the rod to better distribute up your forearm when “high sticking”. With a fighting butt, the rod extends further onto your forearm and carries some of the weight that would otherwise be on your rod hand.

fly-rod-fighting-butt

A fighting butt helps counter-balance the rod and can aid in distributing the rod’s weight up your forearm

 

Where to get one

Ready to make the plunge and get yourself a euro nymphing stick, but not sure where? If you prefer to roll your own rods, checkout the post of fly rod blank manufacturers and look for the Euro = yes in the Blank Selection column. Want to buy a finished rod instead? Check out the post of euro nymphing rod manufacturers.